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Dry skin is caused by
two problems: (1) Damage to the skin's protective barrier which produces
excessive water loss through the skin, and (2) a reduction in the concentrations
of the skin's water-holding sugars and proteins the the proteoglycans
and glycosaminoglycans (GAGs).
Replacement of key skin
lipids often accelerates skin repair and can be a helpful treatment for
dry skin and eczema.
A little about Skin Moisturizing
| Method |
How method works |
Time to be effective |
Problems |
| Copper-Peptides |
Mimics
natural repair. Repairs skin barrier and increases the skin's proteoglycans
and GAGs |
About
2 to 3 weeks |
None |
| Waxes
and greases |
Heavy
oils such as petrolatum seal skin surface to water loss |
Immediate |
Greasy |
| Light
Biological Oils |
octylpalmitate,
sesame oil, sweet almond cover skin skin surface to reduce water loss |
Immediate |
Not
as durable as waxes and greases, but still provides strong skin protection
- not greasy |
| Biological
Oils |
Similar
to human skin oils, Emu Oil and Squalane |
Immediate |
Immediate
Not as durable as waxes and greases but stimulates skin repair |
| Cosmetic
moisturizers |
Mixtures
of oils, water, and surface active chemicals used to open skin barrier
and hydrate skin proteins |
One
day |
Acts
like irritant Loosens protective skin barrier Skin more susceptible
to infection |
Biological oils can
perform well as skin moisturizers - however, you may have to test several
types to find what works best for you. A moisturizer that works well on
your hands may not be acceptable on more oily skin areas of your face.
Names to remember...
- Squalane and squalene
are two very similar lipids and compose 15% of skin fats in the teen-age
years but decline to about 5% after age 50 - this is a major factor
in the skin becoming rough, dry, and vulnerable to damage. Of the two
compounds, squalane from olive oil is more stable and preferred for
skin use.
- Emu oil - Emu oil
often works very well for moisturizing the skin for those with acne
and does not increase breakouts. Also, conditions such as burns and
psoriasis often benefit from emu oil.
- Tocotrienols topically
applied selectively accumulate in skin and serve to protect it against
ultraviolet damage and oxidation. (Traber et al 1997). Helps to fight
oxidative damage to the skin and preserving the existing vitamin E level
in skin cells.
- 7-keto DHEA is a
safer metabolite of regular DHEA (dehydroepiandrosterone), a natural
hormone that improves skin lipid production. 7-Keto DHEA is one of more
than 150 metabolites of DHEA , a precursor hormone that is produced
by the adrenal gland and source of many other hormones, including the
sex hormones estrogen and testosterone. Unlike regular DHEA, 7-Keto
DHEA is not converted into either estrogens or testosterone but still
has DHEA's other beneficial actions. In recent controlled studies, 7-keto
DHEA has been shown to improve sense of well-being, immune and mental
function, and muscle tone in middle aged men and women. DHEA is also
essential for proper sebaceous gland functioning and the production
of skin oils. Studies show that DHEA is readily absorbed by skin when
applied topically. Topically applied DHEA helps protect the skin's delicate
blood vessels. Researchers reported that when DHEA was applied after
a serious burn, the blood vessels underlying the burned area are protected
and the skin is retained instead of peeling off.
- Ubiquinone (CoQ10)
is an oxidative reduction agent that functions in the energy-producing
electron transfer chain in the mitochondria of cells. Ubiquinone also
serves as an important lipid-soluble antioxidant in the skin and other
organs protecting against free radical damage from peroxides that damage
collagen and elastin, which produces a loss of elasticity in the skin
and wrinkle formation.
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